"Varanasi, the city of learning and burning..."

Or so the Indian middle-men say. After spending the past six days in Varanasi, the so-called "Holiest city in India", I'm quite certain that I could do without coming back for the next twenty years.
We've spent the last six days at the Singh Guest House, a motel/restaurant combo of sorts, a short walk from the Ganges. Unlike a western motel though, patrons have to contend with the notorious middle-man. In our case, his name was Rakesh, a portly man of about forty, whose sole job is to introduce us and others to the wonders of Varanasi (Boat rides, temple tours, and scores of Silk Emporiums, music and music lessons). Of course, he has a habit of doubling the price and taking his own cut, but in the end you come to expect that.
And since I'm on the subject of the Ganges... What a magnificient river. With such a peacful majesty to it, it's easy to understand why thousands of Indians flock to the Ghats each day to bathe, meditate, wash clothes, or just sprawl out in contemplation. Sadly, that is a peace that we will probably never know. Every day we walk along the Ghats, trying to enjoy the river, only to be berated by little children selling little flower-candle-boats, and men shouting "Boat, sir?" In addition to that, you've got the postcard salesmen who will accompany you for no less than 100 meters down the river, never leaving you alone and never taking no for an answer. And that doesn't even speak of the hashish dealers; another subject entirely. You can't sit by the Ganges for more than a minute or two without being harassed in one way or another.
And since I'm on the subject of hashish dealers, did you know the Indian goverment actually sells hashish, marijuana (bhang), and opium? That's right, there is actually an ordinance that permits the sale of these substances in certain regions of Varanasi, not coincidentally, in the touristy areas that border the Ganges. So naturally, the government is getting in on the action. I'll leave discussing the ethical implications of this for another time; just thought it would be interesting to mention.
Tuesday, Nathan and I visited Sarnath, the site of the Buddha's first teachings after attaining enlightenment. It's quite a significant place, but difficult to appreciate when you're being trailed by merchants selling water bottles and clay Buddha statues while you're trying to walk around.

Anywho, despite sounding like a negative Nancy, I'm actually enjoying my stay immensely. I suppose it is just sad that one of the most ancient cities in the world, one overflowing with history has turned into a giant tourist trap.